Step 15: Now attach each of your turnbuckle/spring combos to the top rotating mechanism. The hooks will attach to the large lag eye screws at ends of the arms, and the loose ends of the springs will attach to the lag eye screws sticking out of the octoganal part B (two springs per lag screw). You’ll need to use the vise grips to attach the springs as before. We’ll adjust the tension of the turnbuckles later on. You can push each arm down so it touches the table to keep it out of the way while you work. Now take each of your C-clamps and drill a hole in the the main arm 1” up from the the point shown in fig. aa. [Clamp shown is a 2.5“ clamp. You can use 2” clamps just as effectively.] This hole should be just slightly smaller than one of your screw heads. After you’ve done this to all eight, weld your 1” or 1 1/4” diameter washers to the mobile part of the clamp as shown. Welding glue will work just fine. Put cardboard in between the washer and the adjacent part of the clamp to avoid bonding the clamp to itself. The purpose of these washers is to create a greater surface area on the clamp so as to avoid denting your screen frames.
Step 16: (Note: Fig bb shows what to do with 2” clamps, fig. cc with 2.5” clamps.) Once the welding glue dries, and using figs. bb (or cc) and dd as your guides, screw your altered C-clamps through parts X into part T. (You’ll want to have parts X glued and clamped to make this easier.) The washers that you welded onto the C-clamps need to clear the side of the vertical part of bracket J. The bottom of the C-clamps can be welded (glued) underneath brackets J as shown in fig cc., but this is optional. Tighten the clamps all the way while you work and while it glues to help hold them in place. Not only will your C-clamps hold your screens firmly in place, but they will also act as a place to rest your squeegees when your screens are in an upright position.
Step 17: Part R-a has a notch on the top, part R-b has a notch on the bottom. Glue part R-b onto part R-a so the notches intersect, forming an “X”. Attach this “X” onto the top of parts S so that it is centered, as shown in figs. ee and ff.
Step 18: Next attach shelf C onto the top so that the corners are each in the middle of parts R (see fig. gg). Now sand off the corners protruding from parts Q and U. Not only will this save you some potential pain as you print, but the smooth end of the platen arm will help shirts slide on more easily.
20” x 24” frames work best with this press. Attach a frame to each arm (one at a time) and place a squeegee on it. Now that you’ve got it at its operation weight, it’s time to adjust the turnbuckles so it will gently return back to the upright position in between pulls (if released about half way up). For each arm, make sure you adjust the two turnbuckles equally until you are happy with the tension. If your press squeaks when the arms are lowered, use a little WD40 on the insides of parts H. That’s it. You’re done! Happy printing!
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