Free Plans for a Four Color T-Shirt Screen Printing Press - Part 3

Step 14: Now that you’ve secured the brackets (H), you can use them to hold each arm (T) in place while you do the next step. On each arm, draw a line 1 5/16” in from the outer edge of part T (see fig. x). Using these as guides, screw in each of your 1/4" lag eye screws into parts T until they only stick out about 2 1/4” from the board. Next screw in your set of four smaller lag eye screws into part B, halfway between the bolts that are already on the dotted line and parts S. See fig. x for the proper orientation of the lag eye screws. Now gather all your springs and turnbuckles. You’re now going to connect one spring to the closed end of each turnbuckle. If the ends of the springs are closed instead of hooks, clamp one pair of vise grips onto the end of a spring as indicated by the red bar in fig. y. Next use your other pair of vise grips and grasp the same end of the spring as indicated by the blue bar. Now as you bring the two pairs of vise grips together it will widen the opening. Once the opening is wide enough, remove the vise grips and attach the spring to the eye end of the turnbuckle. Now use a single pair of vise grips to sqeeze the openings on the end of the springs closed. Do this to all 8 sets of springs and turnbuckles (see fig. y).

Step 15: Now attach each of your turnbuckle/spring combos to the top rotating mechanism. The hooks will attach to the large lag eye screws at ends of the arms, and the loose ends of the springs will attach to the lag eye screws sticking out of the octoganal part B (two springs per lag screw). You’ll need to use the vise grips to attach the springs as before. We’ll adjust the tension of the turnbuckles later on. You can push each arm down so it touches the table to keep it out of the way while you work. Now take each of your C-clamps and drill a hole in the the main arm 1” up from the the point shown in fig. aa. [Clamp shown is a 2.5“ clamp. You can use 2” clamps just as effectively.] This hole should be just slightly smaller than one of your screw heads. After you’ve done this to all eight, weld your 1” or 1 1/4” diameter washers to the mobile part of the clamp as shown. Welding glue will work just fine. Put cardboard in between the washer and the adjacent part of the clamp to avoid bonding the clamp to itself. The purpose of these washers is to create a greater surface area on the clamp so as to avoid denting your screen frames.

Step 16: (Note: Fig bb shows what to do with 2” clamps, fig. cc with 2.5” clamps.) Once the welding glue dries, and using figs. bb (or cc) and dd as your guides, screw your altered C-clamps through parts X into part T. (You’ll want to have parts X glued and clamped to make this easier.) The washers that you welded onto the C-clamps need to clear the side of the vertical part of bracket J. The bottom of the C-clamps can be welded (glued) underneath brackets J as shown in fig cc., but this is optional. Tighten the clamps all the way while you work and while it glues to help hold them in place. Not only will your C-clamps hold your screens firmly in place, but they will also act as a place to rest your squeegees when your screens are in an upright position.

Step 17: Part R-a has a notch on the top, part R-b has a notch on the bottom. Glue part R-b onto part R-a so the notches intersect, forming an “X”. Attach this “X” onto the top of parts S so that it is centered, as shown in figs. ee and ff.

Step 18: Next attach shelf C onto the top so that the corners are each in the middle of parts R (see fig. gg). Now sand off the corners protruding from parts Q and U. Not only will this save you some potential pain as you print, but the smooth end of the platen arm will help shirts slide on more easily.

20” x 24” frames work best with this press. Attach a frame to each arm (one at a time) and place a squeegee on it. Now that you’ve got it at its operation weight, it’s time to adjust the turnbuckles so it will gently return back to the upright position in between pulls (if released about half way up). For each arm, make sure you adjust the two turnbuckles equally until you are happy with the tension. If your press squeaks when the arms are lowered, use a little WD40 on the insides of parts H. That’s it. You’re done! Happy printing!

• Free Plans for a Four Color T-Shirt Screen Printing Press - part 1
• Free Plans for a Four Color T-Shirt Screen Printing Press - part 2

Free Four Color T-Shirt Printing Press Plans- Part 2

Building the Platen Arm and Platen:

Step 5: The platen arm is the board that extends from the table and on which a board (the platen) is placed, over which shirts are pulled and printed. First glue piece F in the exact middle of the top of the table (piece A). This can be done by drawing lines from opposite corners on piece A, (creating an “X”). Now by matching the corners of board F onto the newly drawn “X”, you’ll get it in the middle (see fig. g). Do not screw it in place at this time- use glue only.

Step 6: Before continuing with the press itself, we’re going to build the platen. The platen featured here is for adult T-shirts, so if you’re interested in printing other types of items you’ll need to build other platens of different sizes. This design is such that you can use the platen sideways for wide designs in addition to using it in its normal position. If that it not of interest to you, just don’t cut and attach parts W-b. (After a year and a half of having this press, I personally haven’t used it sideways, but have built larger, additional platens for wide designs.)

                      Using your drill press or workbench vise and drill, create half-inch holes in the middle of the largest side of 4 of your parts W. For the remaining 4, draw a line 2 3/8” in from the end and drill the holes in the new middle (see fig. h). Then attach them onto board G as shown in fig. i. Use a 2 x 4 to help you space the wood so the platen will fit snugly onto the platen arm when it’s ready. Also make sure that the distance between the holes in one direction is the exact same distance as the holes going the other way (see fig. j). You’ll definitely want to predrill your holes before attaching parts W or you’ll have problems with splitting wood.

Step 7: Now that you have a finished platen, let’s use it to determine where to drill holes in your platen arm (part U). Place the platen over the part U (it should fit snuggly). The curved edge of the platen should be 3” from the end of the platen arm. Mark the holes, remove the platen, then drill half-inch holes throught the platen arm, making sure that they go straight through. You may also want to drill a second set of holes 2 1/4” further in (to the left if looking at fig. k) for greater flexibility when printing.

Step 8: Now that the holes are drilled in the platen arm, let’s attach it to the table. Use your two carriage bolts with the appropriate washers and hex nuts to attach it and add four screws for added stability. See fig l for placement. The dotted lines indicate where to measure to insure your platen arm is straight (before securing). Attach part V as shown in fig. m so it’s centered in the middle of part U. Make sure the screws go into the table AND the platen arm.

Step 9: Attach your “Lazy Susan Turntable” directly in the middle of part F using 4 of your 1 3/4" hex cap bolts. Drill holes directly through parts F and A to do this and use hex nuts to secure them underneath. Fig. n shows this as if the top part of the turntable is missing, just so you can see the orientation of the hex cap bolts. Draw an X onto part B by dividing it in half and in half again. Make sure this is exactly in the center. You’ll be using this later. Next glue both parts S back to back and attach the end of the resulting block to the middle of part B. See fig. o for two views of this.

Step 10: Your accuracy in the following steps is vital to the success of your finished product, so measure carefully! Drill holes in each of your metal brackets as shown in fig. p. Now use a larger bit equal to the size of your screw heads and drill in each of your holes, so that when you screw the bracket on, the screw heads will be flush. Attach each bracket to the end of a part T, making sure it’s in the exact middle from side to side. The vertical position of the bracket depends on the width of your coated lumber (used for the platen). If you are using 3/4” thick wood for your platen, the bracket should extend past the bottom of part T the thickness of your hinge. (fig. q). If you are using 5/8” thick wood for your platen, place the brackets an ADDITIONAL 1/8” down past part T. On the opposite end of each part T, screw in one of the hinges so that the edge of the cylindrical part of the hinge is flush with the edge of board T. Use the screws that came with the hinge. The hinge should be facing “up”, so that when you put in the screws from the bottom into the wood, it will be through the “wrong” end. In other words, the tapered part of the hole is now between the hinge and the wood, and the larger part of the cylindrical section of the hinge is facing up (figs. q & r).

Step 11: Now attach each arm (part T with additions) to four sides of part B using the rest of the screws that came with the hinges (fig. s). Make sure that “length y” is the same for all arms. Using the “X” you drew onto part B in step 9, measure in 2 1/4” from each side and drill a hole big enough for your 3/16" hex cap bolts.

Step 12: Bolt the piece you just built in step 11 to the lazy suzan turntable using 1/4" hex cap bolts from underneath and the appropriate nuts and washers.. Make sure all four arms reach the exact same spot on the platen arm (as shown in fig. t). You can probably move the whole top part slightly until this is the case, and then tighten the nuts. If you can’t seem to get each arm to the same spot on part U, tighten the nuts when you’ve done the best you can. You still need to get the arms the same length, so mark the shortest one, remove part J from any arm that is longer, and sand part T until it’s the appropriate length. Now reattach any part J that was removed. This may seem like a lot of extra work, but it will be well worth it once you start printing multi-color shirts.

Step 13: Twist the top mechanism 45° to get it out of the way (this will become easier when we add the springs so the arms will be out of the way). If it won’t twist because it binds on part U, sand enough of the inner end of part U off until there is no obstruction. Attach part I onto the platen arm (U) using a single screw (otherwise it would probably split). It should be right where part J lands when you lay an arm onto part U, or about 8 5/8” in from the inner end of part U (see figs. u and v). Next attach parts H to the platen arm (part U) so that the curved part of the board is on top and faces in, and so that parts H overhang 7/8” over the side of part A. Make sure to predrill holes for the screws (slightly small than the screws) to make this easier. See figs. u, v and w for different views of this.

Step 13 (continued): Fig. w shows boards H with the curved parts facing in. The reason for this is that as you lower an arm into place, the curved edges will help it fall easily into place. Try doing this now to make sure there is the correct width between the two parts H. The arm (T) should fit VERY snuggly, but stil be able to go into place without excessive force. Remember that when you have a screen connected to the arm it will become even easier to do this because of leverage. Getting parts H to be the perfect distance apart was one of the most difficult parts of building my own press. At first it was too tight and required some adjustment. To make these fine adjustments, loosen the screws and use pieces of cardstock as shims in between parts H and U. Then retighten the screws. Add more shims as necessary until you have the perfect width. If you take the time to do this, you’re press will be ultra-accurate.

• Free Plans for a Four Color T-Shirt Screen Printing Press - part 1


• Free Plans for a Four Color T-Shirt Screen Printing Press - part 3

Free Plans for a Four Color T-Shirt Screen Printing Press - Part 1

Welcome! We are a resource for new and do-it-yourself screen printers who want to print T-shirts and other items with limited money and resources.
Many hundreds of people have built high-quality, four-color T-shirt printing presses using the free plans from this Blog.
We also are building a resource of T-shirt screen printing tips and instructions to help new screen printers learn how to prepare for and print shirts on a limited budget.
Although the more expensive equipment can be nice, there are almost always ways to do each step for a lot cheaper. The T-shirt Screen Printing Instructions are here,
or continue down this page for the 4-color printing press instructions.

Do-It-Yourself homemade T-shirt press instructions- Print Shirts at Home:
This 4-color, one station screen printing press (pictured upper right) was designed and built by us here at PrintingPlans.com. It is sturdy and precise and can be built for less than $175, which is quite a bit less than even the cheapest commercial presses.

Make sure your 4-color press is precise and sturdy:
The sturdiness and precision of the press is important for the success of multi-color images, so it’s important to be as accurate as possible in your measurements, particularly once you get to the arms. You may want to use wood glue at each joint in addition to screws so that the press is as stable as possible, but this does make it difficult to take apart should you make a mistake. You may also want to pre drill holes before putting in the screws to avoid splitting of the wood (use a bit that’s slightly smaller than the screw). This table is designed for a six foot tall person. To alter it for someone of a different height, adjust parts N and O accordingly.

Q: Can this press be made in a table-top version? A: Yes, just forgo making the legs and buy some large clamps or rachet straps to hold it in place.

Tools You’ll Need for the build:
Power Drill/Screwdriver
Wood and Metal Bits
Miter Saw
Table Saw or Circular Saw
Electric Sander
Workbench Vise or Drill Press
Yardstick/Measuring Tape
Pencil
Level
Square
Clamps
Wood Glue
Welding Glue (or tools/materials for welding)
Paper or Card stock

Materials Needed:

In the diagram below you’ll find the dimensions of all the lumber you’ll need. The most important thing regarding the thickness of your wood is that the sum of the width of pieces B, F and the lazy susan turntable is equal to the sum of the thickness of pieces I and U. This will help align everything so your screens float just the perfect height above your shirts for off-contact printing. You should be able to cut all your 2 x 4 pieces out of six 8-foot lengths, so I’d recommend buying seven to be safe. They should all be good, straight pieces, but it is especially important to find a perfectly straight piece for parts T and U.

Note: Part D below is not listed in the instructions. It is a substitute for part K if you choose not to buy a 1 x 4 and would prefer to use your existing plywood.

Note 2: If you can't find coated shelving with a rounded edge, you can create the rounded edge yourself. This is mostly important for parts H. The platen (part G) doesn't specifically need one rounded edge, but rather just needs to be smoothed at the corners so your shirts don't catch on it.

Note 3: The long dimension for part O refers to the length of either side of the parallelogram, NOT the overall length of the board.

Making the Table for the Printing Press:

Step 1: Cut all your lumber, marking each piece with the appropriate letter to make assembly easier. We’ll start by assembling the table itself. First, lay down parts L and Q and attach the legs (part N) as shown (fig. a). Make sure that your angles are perfectly square. Where parts L extend past the legs, use a piece of 2 x 4 to check that the bits that extend are exactly equal to the smaller width of the wood.

Step 2: Attach the thin sides of parts M to part A as shown in fig. b. Use only glue and clamps for now. Again using only clamps and glue, set parts A and M on top of the two legs you built in Step 1, so that parts L and M form a square around the perimiter of A. This is shown from above in fig. c. (Dotted lines indicate parts beneath.) Once you feel comfortable with the fit, Go ahead and screw parts L into M, and A into both L & M from the top.

Step 3: Now you have a standing, albeit weak, table. Attach parts P to legs N as shown in fig. d. Do it in the front and back, both times keeping part P flush to the outside, as seen from above in fig. e. Note: Parts P act as a support beam and rests for a shelf (part E). It can be lowered or raised to suit your preference, and additional shelves may be added if desired.

Step 4: Attach part O to the outside of both sides of the table (fig. f). Make sure you orient them as shown for maximum support. Now secure shelf E onto crossbeams P to act as a shelf. Add part K to the back to help keep items from falling off. You are now finished with the table itself. It should be plenty sturdy with no give at all.

• Free Four Color T-Shirt Printing Press Plans- Part 2
• Free Four Color T-Shirt Printing Press Plans- Part 3

How to Print T Shirt Using Silk Screen (VIDEO)

How to Print Your own T shirt Using Screen Printing Technic. See This Video....Enjoy

Make Your Own Quality Screen Printing Frames For Cheap

To make your own screen printing frames, you’ll need a few items:
Wood Glue
Staple Gun
.125” diameter Screen Door Spline
Screen Door Spline Tool
At least two clamps
Silkscreen Mesh
Balusters

 Screen Door Spline

                                                                                  

   Screen Door Spline Tool

                                                      

 Wood Balusters

                               

 Finished Silkscreen Frame

                                                               

  Tools and complete silkscreen frame without mesh

To begin with, the most vital pieces are the balusters. They are the four sides of your silkscreen frame. If you look at the diagram illustration, they are 1 1/8”x1 1/8” pieces of wood with 45 degree cuts at the sides, and a .5” cut 1/8” wide down the middle of the baluster. If you have some carpentry tools, these can easily be made for very cheap. If not, you can buy the balusters at Blick Art Studio. Blick Balusters are also cheaper than buying a premade frame, but making your own is ideal. Remember when making them that you need the top and bottom the same size baluster and the left and right side also need to be the same size.

Put the four sides together to see how they will fit, and then take wood glue and join one corner. Then use a clamp to hold them tightly together over night. You should have two pieces left, I suggest joining these with glue and a clamp too. You will have two separate L shapes now drying overnight. The next day take the two Ls and join the last two corners with glue and clamps so it creates a square frame. Let that dry overnight again. Finally take a staple gun and staple the seams on both sides of the frame for extra sturdiness. Be sure not to cover the cord groove with a staple.

Now that you have a frame you will need to attach the mesh. I suggest buying .125” screen door spline from a hardware store, and a screen door spline applicator. They should both be at the same place in the hardware store. The tool looks like a pizza cutter. Then you need to lay your silkscreen mesh on top of the screen and cut it with about an 1” extra on each side. From here, I suggest using clamps to hold the mesh against the frame on the opposite end you’ll be working with, and gently push the screen door cord into the first corner of the frame’s groove and work your first side down. Just push enough in so it won’t come out. Keep working around your screen until the cord is completely in and cut the cord to keep the rest for another screen. Then take the applicator and push the cord all the way in. This will really tighten the mesh against the frame. You want your mesh as taught as possible. At this point, you should have some extra mesh hanging out, just trim it down. Your screen just needs a washing with water and dish soap, and left to air dry after towel drying. This removed any manufacturing oils from the screen that won’t react well with your emulsion.

After gluing one pair of balusters, use clamps to keep them tightly together as they dry.

                           

Align your balusters before gluing to see how you will glue it.

                                                     

                                     If you choose to cut your own wood balusters, these are the dimensions.


                                         

                                                    Clamp the mesh against the screen to start attaching the mesh.

                                             Begin rolling from one corner with the tool, but don't push too tightly.

                              Now that you are all the way around, cut the cord, and push it all the way in.

Now that the cord is all the way in and the screen is tight, cut the excess mesh.

A complete silkscreen frame with mesh. Just needs to have the mesh trimmed on the edges.

How to Start Your Own Screen-Printing Business & Get Required Training

Starting your own screen-printing business can prove to be a lucrative endeavor. Customized imprinted T-shirts, banners, bags and other items are purchased by businesses, schools, nonprofit organizations, sporting leagues and a variety of other industries. Retail shops resell their personalized items for a profit, while other companies may use them for branding and advertising purposes. It's important to develop the skill of screen-printing to make quality prints that look sharp and last through a number of laundry cycles. You need the proper amount of training and practice before you sell your first item.

Start a Screen-Printing Business

Step 1

Obtain the necessary licenses and permits. Form your business type --- such as sole proprietorship, partnership, corporation or limited liability company --- and file it with your secretary of state's office. Apply for a business license from your local city office, then log on to the Internal Revenue Service website and apply for an Employer Identification Number. You may need one whether or not you have employees.

Step 2

Apply for your reseller's permit from your state revenue department to allow you to buy wholesale from suppliers and not pay sales tax. You charge your customers tax and pay it back to your state.

Step 3

Check with your local business licensing authorities to determine if your screen-printing business will use machinery and chemical supplies that require special permits or licenses.

Step 4

Buy or lease warehouse space with a small office to greet customers. If you'll be operating out of your home, allot room for your equipment and boxes of supplies and apparel.

Step 5

Buy or lease screen-printing equipment. You need a computer with a graphic design program, press, drying rack, industrial sink, curing unit, dryer, squeegees, screens and scrub brushes.

Step 6

Purchase chemical supplies, such as emulsion, solvents, spot cleaner, and haze and yellowing remover.

Step 7

Set up vendor accounts with T-shirt, apparel and promotional product suppliers. Apply for trade credit so that you can pay your vendors after your customers pay you. Sign up with a number of apparel suppliers so that you may compare prices on items before you buy wholesale.

Step 8

Make your marketing material a reflection of your style as an artist and screen-printer. Include colors and samples of your work on your fliers and brochures. Contact local parent-teacher organizations for schools and personally drop off your business cards to companies in the area.

Screen-Print Training

Step 1

Obtain training on the screen-printing equipment. Machinery suppliers usually provide this service. You may also work at a screen-print shop for a short time before opening your business to gain experience. Internet videos and trade schools may offer training for those starting out.

Step 2

Choose the proper screen for the artwork that you'll print. The size of the mesh is important depending on a number of factors, such as the number of colors in the design.

Step 3

Prepare the screen by cleaning it and then coating it with emulsion, which is a chemical that responds to light. This should be done in an area with red lighting.

Step 4

Attach the art film onto the screen with tape and put it in the light exposure unit. Afterward, wet it in the industrial sink or other washout area. Place the screen back into the exposure unit to completely harden the emulsion.

Step 5

Use a squeegee to place your ink color on the screen. Make a test print using your press, then place the design on the apparel. Screen-printing presses can be difficult to operate and to apply the print perfectly. Ask for sufficient training from the equipment supplier and practice until you're familiar with the machinery and able to operate it properly and efficiently.

Step 6

Run the shirt through a belt dryer to cure the design onto it permanently. If this step isn't completed properly, the imprint will peel after it's washed.

What is the Screen Printing

Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support an ink-blocking stencil to receive a desired image. The attached stencil forms open areas of mesh that transfer ink or other printable materials which can be pressed through the mesh as a sharp-edged image onto a substrate. A fill blade or squeegee is moved across the screen stencil, forcing or pumping ink through the mesh openings to wet the substrate during the squeegee stroke. Basically, it is the process of using a mesh-based stencil to apply ink onto a substrate, whether it be t-shirts, posters, stickers, vinyl, wood, or other material.

Screen printing is also a stencil method of print making in which a design is imposed on a screen of polyester or other fine mesh, with blank areas coated with an impermeable substance. Ink is forced into the mesh openings by the fill blade or squeegee and onto the printing surface during the squeegee stroke. As the screen rebounds away from the substrate the ink remains on the substrate. It is also known as silkscreen, serigraphy, and serigraph printing. One color is printed at a time, so several screens can be used to produce a multicoloured image or design.